Fenway Victory Gardens: How Does Your Victory Garden Grow?

GETTING STARTED
This page is designed to give you just about all the information you need to know to get started as a Fenway Victory Gardener. But please browse the rest of the site for other interesting tidbits. Veteran gardeners may find this section of interest, too.

THE “RULES” AND WHY WE HAVE THEM
Your signed membership application indicates that you received a copy of the Guidelines and Regulations and that you will adhere to them. They represent our current agreement with the City of Boston to garden on parkland in a manner that is harmonious with the natural beauty of this open space.

Certain fencing materials, garden structures and accessories are intrusive in the natural landscape. Please speak with your Area Director before investing in supplies or furnishings that are appropriate for household, marine, or backyard use but are inappropriate for the Olmsted parkland.
You may notice that fencing materials in some established gardens are not consistent with the current Guidelines and Regulations. Exceptions are sometimes granted to gardeners who established their gardens prior to the publication of the new regulations. This is becoming less the case as older gardens are turned over to new gardeners, like you. All new structures must conform to current guidelines.

TOOLS
Each gardener is responsible for providing the tools and supplies necessary to develop, prepare, and plan the plot, water, prune, move or maintain plantings. and install fencing.

At the outset, you may need:
• Spading fork or straight-edged shovel (spade) to turn over large areas of soil
• Rake to grade and level
• Hand trowel for planting
• Hose for watering
• Cultivator or hoe for weeding

In addition, because you are responsible for your gate and fencing you may also want to invest in:
• Hammer
• Wire
• Nails
Even if your fence and gate are in good condition now, you want to be able to make timely repairs should damage occur due to storms, fallen branches, and, sadly, vandalism.

DESIGN
Your first step is to design your garden based on the realities of plot size, available sun and shade, soil condition, and water table. It’s often helpful to begin with a tape measure, pencil, and paper.

Decide on the location of your entrance. It must be off a public path, not through or alongside an adjoining garden. Your entrance should be at least 4’ wide to allow a wheelbarrow turn.

Decide on the location of planting areas and the pathways to service them. Orient your planting beds to take full advantage of available sun. the sun rises over the Prudential Tower (east) and sets over Park Drive (west). A year’s experience will give you a better idea of sunlight variations over the seasons.

Planting areas should be walked on as little as possible. If a border can be approached from only one side, it can be easily weeded and harvested only to a depth of 2 _ ‘. If a bed can be approached from two sides, it can be easily worked to a depth of 5’. Pathways should be at least 18” wide for walking, wider for curves, easier movement of supplies, and wheelbarrow access.

Plants must not extend into the 4’ public paths. Watch where your garden ends and where the path begins. Be prepared to move plants that grow larger than you expected.

PREPARING THE SOIL
Setting realistic expectations: Preparing the soil in your plot is more than a weekend’s work. To make it easier, consider developing the plot in sections. Cover areas “for later” with tarp or weighted-down newsprint so that you restrain weed growth until you are ready.

If your plot has a high water table (i.e., it floods): building up the level of your soil is the best single solution. Bales of Peat Moss can help tremendously during wet springs or particularly rainy seasons. They are fairly inexpensive and aerate the heavier clay soil. When you get discouraged, remember that in the dry, hot summer months wetness is a virtue.

If your soil is dry: To prepare the soil for planting in a dry area:
• Clear plot of debris
• Rototill or turn over the top 6-10” of soil
• Break up large clods
• Remove large stones and weeds, including their underground root systems
• Add organic matter (such as sphagnum and peat moss) turning it in below the surface of the soil to improve soil’s capacity to hold air, water, and nutrients.
Once prepared, avoid stepping on the soil.

Decide whether to Rototill or turn over the plot by hand. Rototilling is faster than hand turning and ideal for breaking up compacted or weed-entrenched soil. It makes the next soil preparation steps quicker and more thorough. You may want to borrow a friend’s Rototiller, or rent one.

Start tackling weeds now. Weeds seeds sprout quickly in freshly turned soil. Immediately before planting, rake the top of 1” of planting beds to disturb germinating weed seeds.

Soil PH
pH (potential of Hydrogen) is a measure of your soil’s acidity. Soil in areas with a moderate rainfall, like Boston, becomes acidic over time. Soil in dry areas, like the Midwest, becomes alkaline over time.

A pH of 7.0 is neutral. Lower numbers indicate increasingly acidic soil; higher numbers indicate increasing alkalinity.

An excessively acidic soil limits the growth, health, and productivity of your plantings. Since soil pH steadily lowers over a year, it is important to test your soil annually. This allows you to adjust the pH before it gets out of hand, and to apply the necessary amounts of lime yearly or biannually. Such a program allows you to keep the soil pH fairly constant from year to year.

Plants vary widely in their sensitivity to acidic soil conditions. Learn the pH requirements for your specific plantings; perennials, fruits, and bulbs can be quite “finicky.” Happily, even these plants thrive in an easily maintained pH range, so it is not necessary to strive for an “ideal number.”

ABOUT THE WATER
Water is provided for the Victory Gardens by the City of Boston. Membership funds purchased the garden-wide polypropylene pipe system that runs down each row, with a hose connector for every four plots. Volunteer gardeners installed, repair, and maintain the system.

The Parks Department turns on the main valves connecting the FGS system and the City water lines around May 1 of each year. They are shut off around mid-October.

In the spring, the parks Department will not make the connections until all the leaks in our pipelines are repaired by FGS volunteers.

Alternating thaws and freezing winter temperatures cause damage to pipes held above ground level or already stressed by lifting and twisting at the hose connector points.

To reduce pipe damage, unnecessary repairs by volunteers, and delays in water turn on:
• Make sure the pipe s held taut and firmly attached at soil level to fencing or pipe supports.
• When watering, bring your hose end down to the pipe; do not lift the pipe to attach your hose.
• Mark the location of the pipe alongside your plot to avoid pitchfork punctures when turning over soil.
• Report all breaks promptly to your Area Director or call the FGS phone line at (617) 267-6650. DO NOT CALL THE CITY TO MAKE REPAIRS.

When the water is shut off
If the entire garden is without water, most likely the line to the neighborhood has been shut down for several hours for maintenance.

If an entire section (i.e. Center North) is without water, there is probably a break in the main valve that connects it to the City line. The main valve has been turned off until repaired by the Parks Department. The FGS is not allowed to hire a plumber to repair the main valves; they are City property.

If only your row is without water, it means that the control switch at the top of the path has been turned “off.” There is a break somewhere in the row that will “gush” and flood nearby gardens whenever the switch is turned “on.” An FGS volunteer will repair the break within several days.

In the meantime, you can water your plot with a bucket or watering can using the nearest live facet.

Water bans
If there is a water emergency and the City of Boston declares a water ban, an announcement will be posted on this site and a message left on the FGS phone line: (617) 267-6650. If our physical bulletin board is in operation in the wheelbarrow area (it often falls prey to vandalism) it will be posted there, as well.

During a ban, you can expect an 8-hour ban on watering by hose or automatic sprinkler. This will be allowed only before 10 am and after 6 pm. No restrictions are placed on hand-watering (i.e. buckets or watering cans).